Modern skincare is becoming increasingly scientific and precise. Store shelves are filled with acid-based products promising the effect of “new skin.” However, without proper use, these components can cause irritation, allergic reactions, and even chemical burns. In this article, we explore how to correctly use AHA, BHA, and PHA acids at home to maximize benefits and avoid harm. As noted by the editorial team at Baltimore Chronicle, it’s crucial to understand not only the effects but also the risks of acids in skincare.
What Are Acids in Skincare and What Are They Used For?
Acids in cosmetics are active ingredients that help exfoliate, brighten, cleanse, and rejuvenate the skin. They fall into three main categories: AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), BHA (beta hydroxy acids), and PHA (polyhydroxy acids).
Key Functions of Acids:
- Exfoliate dead skin cells
- Stimulate collagen production
- Improve skin texture
- Reduce acne and blackheads
- Even out skin tone
Each acid type has specific properties suited for different skin types. Choosing the right product depends on your individual skincare needs.
The Main Types of Acids and Their Effects on the Skin
Acids differ not only by group but also by strength, penetration depth, and side effects. Below is an overview.
AHA Acids (Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic):
- Best for dry and sensitive skin
- Work on the skin’s surface for gentle exfoliation
- Reduce pigmentation and fine lines
BHA Acids (Salicylic):
- Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin
- Penetrate deeper to unclog pores
- Help treat acne and blackheads
PHA Acids (Gluconolactone):
- Suitable for sensitive skin
- Less aggressive but still exfoliating and hydrating
Potential Risks of Using Acids at Home
Despite their benefits, acids can be harsh. Key risks include:
- Redness and burning sensations
- Chemical burns if overused
- Increased sun sensitivity
- Allergic reactions
- Disruption of the skin’s protective barrier
Caution is especially important when combining different acids or using them with retinoids or vitamin C.
How to Properly Use Acids at Home: A Beginner’s Guide
To avoid negative reactions, follow these essential steps.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
- Start with one product with a low concentration (under 5%).
- Apply the product in the evening after cleansing.
- Don’t use acids daily — begin with 1–2 times per week.
- Always use SPF 30 or higher during the day.
- Avoid combining acids with other actives unless advised by a dermatologist.
Acid Comparison Table: Effects and Risks
| Type of Acid | Suitable for Skin Type | Main Effect | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glycolic | Normal, dry | Exfoliation, brightening | Medium |
| Salicylic | Oily, acne-prone | Deep pore cleansing, acne | High |
| Lactic | Sensitive, dry | Hydration, gentle exfoliation | Low |
| Mandelic | Sensitive, combination | Skin renewal | Low |
| PHA | Very sensitive | Exfoliation + hydration | Very Low |
How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin Type
Choosing the right acid is key to effective and safe skincare. Consider the following:
- Skin type: dry, oily, combination, or sensitive
- Skin issues: acne, pigmentation, dullness
- Season: milder acids are better in winter
- Frequency: beginners should use acids no more than once or twice a week
Common Mistakes When Using Acids and How to Avoid Them
Even the best products won’t work if used incorrectly. Here are common mistakes:
- Using multiple acids at the same time
- Skipping sunscreen after applying acids
- Using acids every day without breaks
- Applying acids to irritated or damaged skin
- Skipping a patch test before first use
Smart skincare requires moderation, observation, and readiness to adjust products as needed.
Alternatives to Acids: Gentle Solutions for Sensitive Skin
If acids don’t suit you or you’re hesitant to use them, try these alternatives:
- Enzyme peels (based on papain, bromelain)
- Products with niacinamide
- Plant-based keratolytic cosmetics
- Hydrosols with mild acid effects (e.g., rose water)
These options offer similar results with a lower risk of irritation.
Earlier we wrote about how your skincare routine will change in 2025.